Checking Out Singapore’s Back Alleys
I had already been a fan of back alleys in Hong Kong. This is where you find the coolest graffiti and occasionally a hip hidden cafe or boutique. I have found exploring back alleys in Tokyo rewarding as well (perhaps I will do a photo essay on this one day). But since Singapore has criminalised graffiti, I expected Singapore’s alleys to be … well, bland. Discovering Yip Yew Chong’s murals painted (with official permission) in the alleyways of Chinatown sent me wandering in these spaces and it was then that I realised that there were fascinating surprises to be found there.
Unlike Hong Kong and Tokyo, however, back alleys in Singapore are not places for a subversive counterculture to flourish. Instead, they are spaces for the working classes—serving staff of eateries, the cleaners, and dishwashers—to congregate and decompress. You see a different side to Singapore here, and if you are (like me) a little bored of the polished veneer of this very prim and proper city-state, you might find sauntering through the back alleys of Chinatown intriguing. You will find examples of the human ability to create something out of nothing. It’s a little messy and shambolic and it may reek of cigarette smoke or garbage at times, but you can witness the creative transformation of an unpromising space into a garden and see how the gathering of scraps of furniture brings into being a semi-comfortable hangout. You can imagine the relaxation and relief that back-alley regulars feel as they tend to their plants or sink into a chair away from the watchful eye of their supervisor. These are places of rest, of camaraderie, a place to let your guard down for a while. I find them rather touching spaces.
Some alleys are not very pleasant smelling, because the rubbish bins for each establishment are placed here, but they are generally clean (no rats!) and safe to walk through. Here are two Chinatown back alleys that I particularly enjoy wandering down (see the black arrows).
Where to eat in the Chinatown area
The Little Red Hen
01-66, 7 Maxwell Road, Amoy Street Food Centre, Singapore 069111
Nasi ulam is a Malay herbed rice dish and it requires the painstaking slicing and dicing of a large variety of herbs and roots—lemongrass, turmeric, galangal, mint, pennywort, torch ginger flower, and the list goes on. It’s not often sold as a result. This stall is one of the maybe two or three places in the whole of Singapore which sells it. It’s very light and refreshing and pairs well with ayam percik (a spice and tamarind marinated chicken that is barbecued). They are likely to be out of nasi ulam by 12:30 pm, so go early.
8 Upper Cross St, Singapore 058327
An old-school eatery whose main speciality is soya braised chicken. Pair this with springy egg noodles or fragrant rice that has been cooked in chicken stock. Chew Kee is also known for their dumplings, but these usually sell out quickly during their lunch service. The flavours are clean and pure; everything tastes very old fashioned and homemade.
Note: Please do not confuse Chew Kee Soy Chicken with Chiew Kee Noodle House just a few doors down.
81 Club St, Singapore 069449
The Little Red Hen and Chew Kee are very budget friendly, but this is because both are no-frills eateries. Don’t expect air-conditioning and fancy service. If walking around Chinatown in the heat has left you in need of some pampering, then head to Cenzo in Club Street for some Italian fare. Their weekday lunch set is great value for money, though the à la carte menu is full of delicious dishes too.
52A Amoy St, Singapore 069878
Being a bar serving some innovative cocktails and great snacks, Native is really more of a night spot. But if you happen to be in the area in the evening, this would be a good stop for a drink and a light meal. The menu focuses on local classics done with a twist. If you want an example of modern Singaporean cooking, I would highly recommend coming here. Native's menu is also quite plant-forward, so vegans and vegetarians will enjoy the fare.
Activity
If you are intrigued with back alleys and want to explore further, sign up for Say Tian Hng Buddha Shop's Between Two Worlds walking tour. Say Tian Hng is a heritage business on Neil Street and they specialise in the carving of Buddhist and Taoist gods. They have branched out into walking tours and workshops and one of their most interesting walks is one that takes you through back alleys to visit street shrines.
