Shitamachi Wanderings: Yanaka
Yanaka is a middle-class neighbourhood that still retains its old-world shitamachi charms. Spared from WWII bombings and subsequent post-war urban development, the area is full of meandering alleyways, streetside gardens, and hidden shops nestled discreetly among residential buildings. Even though most residences have been modernised, the narrow streets are vivid reminders of the shape and feel of old Tokyo. Yanaka also has a number of businesses housed in traditional wooden buildings: some selling snacks like senbei and wagashi (so it isn’t too hard to feel yourself slipping back in time to a different era); some with more cosmopolitan offerings.
I like to start off from Nippori station and head towards Yanaka Ginza. After admiring the shops there, I then let myself get lost as I wander the side streets. When I tire, I use Google maps to navigate myself to a tea house or lunch spot (see recommendations below) for a restorative drink or meal. Thus fortified, I head out for more exploring. If you need a calm and shady spot to decompress, visit the Yanaka Cemetery for some peace and quiet.
A Few Yanaka Favourites
Three 1940s traditional wooden houses have been lovingly restored and transformed into a complex that houses a beer hall, a small but stunning modern bakery, a café, and a purveyor of flavoured olive oils and vinegars.
This charming tea house in an old wooden house makes for a lovely pit stop as you walk around Yanaka. The matcha is rich and deep, and you can pair it with one of their homemade sweets—a fish-shaped taiyaki or a slender monaka wafer filled with red bean paste. It’s not the finest or fanciest wagashi you will find in Tokyo, but the confections are well made. A sip of their matcha and a bite of their sweets will make you wish that each day could include a calm half hour spent here.
Hidden in a back alley, getting to asatte is half the fun. You wander through tiny lanes full of family residences until you spot the outline of an ice cream cone attached to a wooden column. This is the sign that you have reached your destination. Their range is modest, but each artisanal ice cream is packed with flavour.
A famous kakigori (shaved ice) eatery. Japanese shaved ice desserts are ethereally light and flavoured usually with fruit purees that have been distilled to contain the pure essence of the fruit. Expect to queue, especially in the summers. The daily menu is posted on their Instagram account.
It’s an odd little shop selling yellow cedar (hiba) wood shavings from Aomori in Northern Japan artfully folded to form a rose. It makes for an unusual gift. They also sell the wood shavings in delicate curls with a little sachet to put them in. The owner recommends placing the shavings in your closet or even by your pillow to relax you as you drift off to sleep.
Located in a Meiji-era brick building, this udon place is both cool and very atmospheric. They also serve up some amazing dipping udon, tempura, and grilled mackerel. Go early or go late for lunch; or be prepared to queue.
©F.L.Blumberg 2024
A tea shop with an impressive selection of single origin Japanese teas and beautiful teaware. You’ll be given tastings of whatever tea they have on brew that day, but please note that they do not have a tea salon where you can sit and sip. The staff are extremely knowledgeable and they have a very organised system of categorising their range of teas to help you find a variety you will enjoy. I was very happy with the sencha I purchased here and cannot wait to return to stock up on more varieties.
