Kuramae & Dandelion Chocolate
In the Edo period, Kuramae was home to numerous rice granaries. These days, it is a low-key district that is slowly and surely gentrifying (I've even noticed a magazine calling it Tokyo's Brooklyn). All this means that making Dandelion Tokyo a destination in itself can be rewarding. A little stroll around the neighbourhood will reveal a leather workshop selling handmade bags and wallets (M+), an intriguing stationery shop (Kakimori), and another that specialises in naturally dyed fabrics (Maito Design Works). Appealing coffee shops are also starting to pop up in the area, but I would hold off on diving into one for a drink and snack. This is because Dandelion serves up some wonderful hot chocolate and sweet treats, and the space itself—high ceilings, simple wood furniture, with warm, brown accents—is a relaxing place for an afternoon pick-me-up. In front of the café is a playground and, if you come at the right time, you can watch children at play as you sip a hot chocolate and wonder whether you will really be buying every type of bar available in the shop (for me, the answer is yes—as many as I can safely afford).
Dandelion regularly works with a number of cacao plantations in South America and Africa, and amongst these, the bar from Zorzal Comunitario in the Dominican Republic is my go-to choice, but they are also beginning to look beyond these regions. Their latest bars featuring beans from Hawaii, Vietnam, and India have been sensational, so I would recommend giving these a try as well. It’s important to remember though that each year the bars will have a new flavour profile as the chocolatiers will be working with the newest batch of beans and deciding on what notes to foreground.
Do also look out for their seasonal collections of flavoured bonbons and other limited edition treats. Last winter, there were some delectable chocolate-coated Japanese citrus peels. This spring, the cherry blossom-inspired bonbons were a true joy.
Where to eat in and around Kuramae
You’ve had your hot chocolate, maybe even downed the chocolate dessert flight, and bought a few bars. You’ve wandered around Kuramae to work off some calories and now your stomach is growling and you want to end the day with a healthy meal to offset all that indulgence. Yuwaeru is the place for you and it’s only a seven-minute walk from Dandelion! They specialise in affordable set meals of brown rice, soup, and side dishes. Yuwaeru is also a deli, so after eating you can look over their shop selling Japanese seasonings and ingredients and maybe bring some home with you.
If you desire something a little fancier, then make your way to nearby Asakusa to Bentenyama Miyako Sushi. Established in 1866, this is a sushiya that proudly maintains the traditions of Edomae sushi (Edo- or Tokyo-style sushi). The two master chefs are friendly and kind, though I can’t guarantee how much English they can speak because the last time we were here we had our Japanese friends translating for us. Eating at a sushiya is never cheap, but for one that has such a long history, Bentenyama is quite reasonably priced.
